Have you ever wondered if you could tile over the existing tile in your shower? I have good news, the answer is yes!
We purchased our home online during the lockdown of the pandemic in 2020.
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There were a few things we did not like about the house.
Number one was the tile choice for the primary bathroom.
Unfortunately, we did not have the budget to gut the bathroom and start over!
We decided we could live with the white tile on the walls but the shower floor had to go!
We consulted with the builder, and a tile shop, to find out if it would be possible to tile over the existing tile in the shower!
They both said yes! We were so relieved that we would not have to demo the floor and start from scratch!
Important note: Do not tile over tile if your shower floor has mold or mildew, is uneven, or is retaining moisture! Consult a builder or contractor before doing this in your home.
before and after pictures
Sorry, the quality of our pictures is not the best. The “before” picture was taken on the day we moved into the house.
We did the no demo reno of our primary bathroom last summer but never shared the DIY.
I’m so happy with the new look of the shower and it’s so much easier to clean!
Now I’m going to turn this over to Rich and he’s going to tell you how to tile over the existing tile!
Choose Tile
The most important choice you will make will be your choice of tile. Tile mosaic sheets, in my opinion, are better for doing a tile over tile makeover because they will limit problems due to an occasional uneven or high spot on the original tile. Most shower tiles are smaller anyway making for a less slippery surface.
Your tile choice will also determine your thin-set mortar type, grout type, the color of your grout, size of tile spacers, caulk, and sealer used as they all must be compatible with the tile and look good with your tile. Consult the home improvement store or tile shop staff or manufacturer if you are unsure of which type to use. Once you compile a list of exactly what size and kind of materials you need you can shop around to find them by searching for tile installation tools at Amazon or other sources.
Measure
Measure the square footage (Length X Width) of your shower area. These measurements will be used to determine how many tile sheets, thin-set mortar, grout, and sealer are needed for the job. Add 10% to these totals for mistakes etc.
Gather
Gather or purchase the following supplies:
- Vacuum
- Hand sander(Ryobi (WalMart) or DeWalt (Amazon) coarse grit sandpaper
- Wet Saw (Amazon)
- Primer (The primer we used came from The Tile Shop) (Similar product on Amazon)
- Dust cloth
- Dust mask
- 6-inch roller/ medium nap roller
- Roller tray
- Drain extension kit (WalMart) (Amazon)
- Thinset and grout mixing paddle (Eggbeater) (WalMart) (Amazon)
- Gallon bucket (at least 2)
- Thinset trowel ( sized based on tile type and thin-set used) (Amazon)
- Tile float (Amazon)
- Plastic spacers or leveling systems sized for gaps between your tiles (Amazon)
- Sealer (based on tile selected for project)
- Small bowl
- Sealer sponge
- Thinset Mortar (based on tile selected for project)
- Grout mix (color and type based on tile selected for project)
- Empty bucket
- Bucket of water
- Grout sponge
- Caulk
Prepare to install tile over existing tile
Sand existing tile floor
- Wear a dust mask since the shower is usually enclosed to protect against inhaling dust.
- Use a hand sander to go over the old tile floor twice to rough it up to allow the primer to adhere better.
- If there are any areas of the old tile floor that seem uneven you may want to try additional passes with the sander. Hard to sand that much on stone and marble though having a flat surface with few high spots will get the best results.
- Vacuum up all dust and use a tack cloth to make sure the floor is clean.
Determine layout
Test fit full tile sheets along both directions of the shower to see how the last sheet in each direction lands. This way you will know if you will end up with some strange partial tiles. Mosaic tile sheets are easier to deal with in my opinion versus larger individual tiles.
Cut tile
- So now go about cutting each sheet to fit and cutting any small tiles to finish the edges.
- Place the tiles in the shower exactly where they are going to go.
- Use scissors or a box cutter to cut out pieces of full sheets to fit the edges.
- Some custom pieces were needed so those were cut to fit with a wet saw.
- Pieces were marked with a pencil or grease pencil. Use something that will not harm the tile.
Be very careful when using a tile wet saw. Wear gloves and keep your fingers away from the blade.
- Once all pieces were cut and placed, they were removed and stacked/placed in order in the bathroom. Our bathroom had enough space to lay them out just as they were in the shower. You could do that or label each piece with some kind of diagram to know where they should be placed when putting them in permanently.
- Depending on what partial or individual tiles or sheets you end up with at the edges, you may want to wait and cut them to fit after you lay the full sheets. This is to allow for a small shift in alignment when you put the tile in the mortar.
- We went ahead and cut most of the partial sheets but waited on cutting individual tiles.
How to CUT tile around the drain
- When you reach the drain, I dry laid the tile sheet(s) on top of the drain.
- Use a flashlight and peer through the mosaic sheet to find the drain.
- Use tape or a wax pencil to mark each tile on the sheets that overlap the drain.
- Better yet if you can see the drain good enough, trace the circle or square of the drain on the tiles.
- Then use scissors to cut the mesh and remove those tiles. Keep them arranged as they were on the sheet.
- You will have a much better idea of where to cut them to custom fit around the drain.
- I waited and cut these the day I set the tiles just in case my pattern shifted slightly.
- You want these pieces to fit perfectly around the drain to look the best.
DRAIN EXTENSION
Because you are tiling over the existing tile, you must get a drain extension kit. You will need one that is the same diameter if it is a circle or matching exactly if your drain is square.
- Check the thickness of your tile plus at least 1/8 inch to judge the new height of your new tile.
- Follow the instructions on your drain extension kit.
- You will get a longer pair of screws to screw down the new extension.
- In between the old plastic drain and new drain extension you usually add 1 to 4 rubber gaskets to adjust to the correct height.
- Get this fixed and fastened into place before preceding.
Prepare floor
- Clean the shower.
- We taped off the shower walls where they met the tile floor and the drain to prevent getting the primer on the walls or down the drain.
PRIME FLOOR
- Thoroughly and evenly roll on the primer, rolling in both directions.
- Roll evenly making sure primer does not puddle up.
- At least two coats should be applied and allowed to dry for 24 hours. See instructions for your specific primer and follow your primer’s instructions just in case they differ.
steps to Install Tile over existing tile
Mix Mortar
- Decide which wall of the area you will begin with. The important thing is to get that first edge in and spaced properly. You don’t want to start out of line.
- Read the thin-set mortar manufacturer instructions.
- Take your gallon bucket and add the appropriate amount of mix and liquid per instructions.
- Mix to the proper consistency. This is usually like soft peanut butter to a toothpaste consistency.
- The best way to mix is with a mortar/grout mixing paddle (Eggbeater) attached to a power drill.
Apply MORTAR
- Remove painter’s tape used to tape off the shower for the primer.
- Get set up in the shower area with your bucket of thin-set, trowel, float, and towel/cloth.
- Time to use a buddy to hand you the tile sheets to help things go smoothly. Believe me, you do not want to have to kneel and lay tile and then get up to go get more over and over.
- Begin by scooping out enough thinset from your bucket to lay at least the first two tile sheets. Spread out with a solid side of the trowel.
- Tilt your trowel about 45 degrees and use the notched side to thin out your thinset mortar dragging it across and making tracks.
- Scrape off excess back into the bucket after each pass. Continue making sure they are no big blobs. The excess will squish out between tiles and you will have to do more clean-up before moving on.
- Take your first tile sheet and position it just as you planned and gently press it into position in your thinset.
- Use your hands or the float to apply even press to firmly set the sheet. Then position and add your next sheet.
- Clean up any excess thinset that has squished up between tiles.
- Add plastic tile spacers as necessary to properly maintain space between tiles and walls.
- If you have individually cut tiles on the edge, apply a small dab of thinset to each (called back buttering) and press those into position.
- Repeat this process setting all your tile sheets and pieces into place.
- Mix more thinset as needed.
- Cut all custom tiles and partial sheets to fit and lay thinset or back butter these pieces into place.
- At this point, take the tiles you cut away for the drain and check your trace markings against the drain. It will be much easier to see if your lines still line up. Cut and place the drain pieces.
- After finishing the last tile sheets, inspect for any excess thinset and any raised tiles.
- Usually, it is best to let thinset mortar dry for 24 hours.
SEAL the TILE
- If recommended for the type of tile you are installing, you may need to apply tile sealer before grouting.
- This sealer will keep the grout from adhering to the tile surface and makes for easier clean-up of grout haze.
- Lightly glaze the tile surface with sealer rubbing diagonally.
- Wipe up any excess sealer and leave no puddles.
- Let sealer dry per manufacturer instructions
Grout THE tile
Clean tile
- Take a cloth or sponge and wipe away any dust or dirt.
Apply grout
- Read grout manufacturer instructions.
- Take your gallon bucket and add the appropriate amount of grout mix and liquid per instructions.
- Mix to the proper consistency per the instructions
- Start at the back side of the shower so you can grout your way out of the shower without stepping on your prior work.
- Scoop a blob or two of grout onto the surface.
- Hold the float at 45 degrees and spread the grout across the tile diagonally forcing the grout across and down into the gaps in the tiles.
- After finishing a couple of sheets’ worth, dampen your grout sponge and gently wipe away excess grout and haze.
- Wipe diagonally and turn the sponge to a clean part on each wipe.
- Once you have used all surfaces of the sponge to wipe, dip it in a bucket of water, rinse and squeeze out all excess water. Repeat until excess grout is removed from the tile.
- Repeat the process of adding blobs of grout, spreading into gaps, and sponging off excess until done with your entire design.
Remove excess grout
- Let the grout set for usually 15 to 20 minutes and then sponge off any grout haze present using your damp sponge, wiping diagonally just as you applied grout.
- Let the grout dry per manufacturer instructions.
Caulk
Clean tile
- With your grout fully dry, inspect the shower floor and wipe clean of any remaining grout haze or dust.
Choose correct caulk
- Choose the correct caulk for your tile application.
- Seek advice from your home improvement or tile shop.
Apply caulk
- Using a caulk gun run a thin bead of caulk along the edges of the shower where the floor meets the wall or edge of the shower pan.
- This gives extra protection to prevent moisture leakage beyond the grout.
Smooth caulk
- Smooth the caulk bead with a caulk tool or your finger.
- Remove any excess caulk that smears up the wall or floor.
The finished shower floor
I would let everything dry and seal at least another 24-48 hours or per manufacturer instructions then enjoy your upgraded shower. This takes some patience and time but look how great it looks!
I am so happy we were able to tile over the existing tile in our shower! No demo reno makes me happy!
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Blessings, Donna and Rich
save it now to use later
More DIY inspiration
Want to see other DIY projects we’ve done to improve our home? Click the links below!
- No Demo Master Bathroom Makeover
- Install a Tile Backsplash in the Kitchen
- Easily Install a New Shower Head
- How to Replace your Bathroom Light Fixture
- How to Install a Flow Wall System to Organize Garage
Tools to get the job done
Click on the item you wish to purchase to help get the job done.
**Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, we will receive an affiliate commission at no extra cost to you. We appreciate your support. (disclosure policy)
CoCo says
I can’t believe how many big projects you guys have been tackling this summer, Donna! I’m super excited for you because they all look amazing. I know this was a lot of work but the end result was totally worth it. I love the tile you chose and everything. It’s just fabulous. Hugs, CoCo
Donna Allen says
Thank you CoCo! We actually did the work last summer and are just now posting it! It was a big job but we’re so much happier with the look of our bathroom now!
LA says
Hello! Thank you or sharing this. We painted our shower floor with the tub and tile rustoleum shower tile paint about six months ago. We are not happy with the outcome. If we wanted to tile over it – would the paint need to be removed for this process to work correctly?
Donna Allen says
Hello! We recommend you speak to a professional contractor, builder, or tile expert at a tile store to see if they think tiling over tile is appropriate for your specific bathroom situation! They will know whether the product they suggest will adhere to a painted surface. Good luck and let us know what you decide!